Everything That Is ‘Fashion’

All-Time Top Five: Ways to Celebrate David Lynch’s Birthday!

It’s David Lynch’s birthday! The director of Blue Velvet, Mulholland Drive, and of course “Twin Peaks” turns 66 today! Of course, I could tell you to watch his movies and stuff — they all generally deserve multiple viewings because of their haunting beauty and sheer audacious crazy — but surely there’s a more NOGOODFORME kind of way to honor such a beautiful genius, no? Anyway: HAPPY BIRTHDAY, DAVID LYNCH! Thank you for making such transcendent movies! Here’s how I’m gonna celebrate your birthday!

DANCE DREAMILY AT YOUR FAVORITE DINER

David Lynch’s films generally have fantastic uses of music — he’s a real genius with film sound (I wrote a whole paper on it, ages ago!) Film sound often functions as a movie’s subconscious, and his films are a particularly riveting combination of ethereal darkness and oddly buoyant pop charm. (I even dug the heavy industrial vibe of Lost Highway! Nine Inch Nails!) What would “Twin Peaks” be without the spooky sounds of Julee Cruise and Angelo Badalamenti?

This is Julee Cruise singing “Rockin’ Back Inside My Heart” on the BBC in 1989! Oh my god, the back-up singers’ dresses!

HAVE A HARROWING MOMENT OR TWO

The juxtaposition of surfaces of innocence with a teaming underbelly of moral corruption and surreal nightmares is really the crux of what makes Lynch such a genius as a filmmaker. That scary moment of the thing behind the diner in Mulholland Drive, the frighteningly debasing of nightclub singer Dorothy Vallens in Blue Velvet or BOB (he still scares me!) — those are the most memorable moments of a Lynch movie, whether you like them or not. You can’t have light without dark, so do a little dance with your inner demon. Otherwise it will lurk in the back of your proverbial diner or at the food of your bed, waiting to SCARE YOU TO DEATH. BOB!!!

GET A HOLD OF THE SECRET DIARY OF LAURA PALMER

Did anyone else read this when it came out? I remember reading it, passing it around with friends, all of us going, “OH MY GOD THIS BOOK IS SO DIRTY!” It was great fun. It actually works really well as a standalone work, and pulls you into the whole “Twin Peaks” mystery so beautifully. I wish I could find my copy for it somewhere!

WEAR SADDLE SHOES AND PLAID SKIRTS, OR PINK LYCRA AND HEAVY EYEBROWS, OR A SNAKESKIN JACKET

I truly never appreciated the genius costuming of “Twin Peaks” until I worked in film as a wardrobe designer — the combination of 50s-esque schoolgirl silhouettes with Northwest fabrics, colors and textures was truly inspired. My favorite was always Audrey, who had a way with plaid tweed skirts, tight sweaters and dark lipstick:

But I actually think the best fashion film in terms of Lynch’s canon is Wild at Heart. Sailor and Lulu! Proto-True Romance, no? Pink lycra! Snakeskin jacket! Isabella Rossellini’s eyebrows! Wowza!

FOLLOW AGENT DALE COOPER’S ADVICE FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE

“Every day, once a day, give yourself a present.”

So said TV’s most perfect man ever. Follow his advice: it’s guaranteed to make your life happy and amazing!

Here Is My Halloween Hat

I bought it at Doriumlux. I’m going to be “a wolf who is a go-go dancer.” I will wear a white sleeveless minidress, white tights, white go-go boots, possibly white eyeshadow and white lipstick. I will be a white wolf.

Skater Girls as the Next Fashion Editorial Trope

Foam is still my jam as far as fashion magazines go: I totally buy into their cool surfer girl thing, and I’m way psyched to see that they’re starting to feature more ladies of color in their photography in addition to their coverage of indie designers and cool tunes. I actually really like their fashion editorials, too — they’re kind of laidback, outdoorsy-witchy sometimes, off-kilter, tomboyish and not too fashion-y. Fashion for a girl who likes to be on the move, whether it’s on the beach, on the streets, or in more rarefied circles. Or, hey, on a skateboard, too! Their latest issue (“The Blogger Issue,” featuring a bunch of fashion bloggers I’m not super-familiar with, showing me how out of it I am when it comes to that niche these days) has an editorial that takes on the skater girl archetype in all this gloriously faded 80s Hypercolor-like photography. Naturally, writing a novel about a lady skater myself, I was way psyched to see the spread, even though part of me had the very (skaterish) thought that maybe it was poser-y. And then part of me is like, Who cares! Girls on skateboards! Always awesome!

The thing is, I really wish girls on skateboards was more of trope — I’m not really gifted with an encyclopedia recall of every fashion editorial that has ever hit the newsstands (thank God, maybe), but I don’t see it often. I often see skater-dude-as-editorial-accessory — usually with some lady with a ball gown, which of course makes perfect logical sense in the Fashion Universe. (Of course.) But rarely is a girl on a board herself, which is kind of too bad. My favorite skater lady fashion ed to date was actually a Vogue Paris one that Emmanuelle Alt styled ages ago. No real skating involved, but I loved the clothes, naturellement (I love those jackets):

Can I make a request of the Fashion Universe, and get a Tim Walker-photographed skater girl fashion ed of girls on tutus with pink-punk hair on cool decks? Please? Imagine if these chicks were on board and had hacked off the bottoms of their couture dresses?

On the other hand, there’s really nothing like the real thing. Real always trumps. (PS – My skater girl character looks NOTHING like this whole entry, AT ALL.)

Random Picture Entry: Sofia Coppola in Seventeen

I know Sofia is all Paris-living and Louis Vuitton-designing and fancy now, but I really miss her Cali-girl Milk Fed days, when she wore Chinatown slippers and did gymnast roles in music videos directed by her movie director boyfriend. I guess all good times must come to an end.

Proof That Our Readers Are Total Geniuses

This is what I love about this blog’s readers — we show you a picture of a freakily awesome but stupidly expensive sweater, like the one horse sweater that Liz blogged about some time ago. And rather than let some totally WTF price point get you down, you just go and MAKE ONE JUST LIKE IT with your own bad-ass DIY selves. Which is what reader Nozlee Samadzadeh did, and IS IT NOT DOPE? It is dope! Witness:

Compare to the inspiration:

Considering that this blog’s origins are steeped in zines and stuff, naturally, I was so psyched that she sent this in. I wheedled her to let me share the brilliance with you all, and I’m glad she did, because it makes me happy to think what we stick up here isn’t going out into some dark, gaping void of non-meaning but into the hearts and minds of real, thinking, cool, creative people. You guys really are the best.

XOXOXOXOXOX

Foam is My New Favorite Magazine. Also The Best Outfit Featuring a Misfits T-Shirt, Ever

OK, so it suffers a bit from all the usual things that plague most fashion magazines, like a stunning lack of people of color and an overabundance of the same super-skinny “ectomorph”/hungry-looking body type, which I find perplexing for a magazine that’s devoted to surfing. But your love’s gotta go somewhere, and Foam has mine simply because it has some of the few fashion images that have made me go “YAY HEARTS AND STARS” in awhile. On first glance it may be a jazzed-up, beached-up, version of Nylon, but there’s tons of surfing content and it comes by its love for the ocean and surfing honestly — and that informs its editorial and even gives the best moments in its fashion spreads a free-spiritedness and fun. I’m not a surfer girl but I play one in my dreams — and I like that there’s a genuine passion in its pages that goes beyond consumption. Plus, its recent Music Issue (featuring Lykke Li!!) features an editorial devoted to band t-shirts! How can that not be dope? OK, so it skews a little close to the “poor white people” trope that gets a little tired (argh, trucker hat) but moments like pairing a studded black denim jacket with lemon-yellow Converse make it brilliant (which I can’t show you ’cause it was in the fold and a bitch to scan, but trust me, I was like, “I think Liz Barker would dig that outfit pretty fierce.”) AND ALSO THIS MOST BRILLIANT OUTFIT EVER, at least to someone like me who loves gamine-ish schoolgirl stuff mixed with Misfits t-shirts. I will probably never wear an outfit like this (except for the Misfits t-shirt), but I still love it. I think I just love Misfits t-shirts, if only because the hottest skater/werewolf dude in my book wears one and it makes him even more hotter. Maybe Misfits t-shirts make everyone hotter, at least in my book? (Rhetorical book as well as literal one.)

I also really liked its “tribal prints” story. (Le sigh on “tribal,” at least they didn’t say “ethnic,” which is my bigger postcolonial fashion pet peeve.) The pictures made me happy and made me think of the glorious avant-wack aesthetic Laura Jane championed a few seasons back.

Of course, no magazine is complete with a drug-like, hazy 70s-esque fashion spread:

Maybe I’m being overenthused. But I was not bored in the least when I read Foam, and at least I learned that Marnie Stern counted Rocky Balboa as one of her inspirations when she was learning to play. I don’t ask for more from a fashion magazine, other than to stop favoring one physical ideal at the expense of other beautiful women in the world. But I guess we’ll have to wage that battle during the Return of the Jedi installment of fashion-magazine history.

Poketo’s New Line of Basics = The Bomb!

Poketo, Poketo, man I love Poketo! They’re become known for their everyday objects featuring beautiful artwork and illustrations, which I discovered when they put out their Poketo for Target collection, and I’ve been a superfan since. They’ve recently launched some more subdued basic wardrobe items and I’m in love. Look at this Beuys cape coat! It’s a bit avant but absolutely wearable; I’d wear it with my wacky grey tiger-striped Uniqlo leggings and my favorite ankle boots and the big, big hair that I’ve been cultivating. Doesn’t that sound good? Don’t you want to buy it for me then? It has a simplicity and integrity that carries through all of Poketo’s products, and the price isn’t totally bananas, too. What more can you ask for? Hint: this would make a perfect gift for fun, artsy girls — or, you know, for yourself, because most of you are fun, artsy girls, right?

Also, the men’s military jacket is pretty dope; I want it for myself. I love how this dude is all, “Man, the burden of rocking this awesome jacket is so hard, I need to lean against a WALL.”

Dude, you must be tired. Let me take the burden of the awesome military jacket from you.

Too Dude For You/Imaginary Shopping Spree: Percival

Percival is a UK-based men’s clothing label and they are pretty damn stellar. Everything has a impeccable simplicity that it makes me want to buy every single thing for myself, including those ace jackets. The materials sound lovely, and there’s enough quietly playful detail (plaid cuffs, quirky patterns) to keep it from being zzzzzville. LOVE!

(Also, Percival’s blog is pretty dope as well.)

Style Icon: Linda McCartney in the “Helen Wheels” Video

When they all stand up in the car at the chorus, it looks like the most fun in the world. Excepting the mullet, that look Linda’s got going on is kinda my fall fashion concept 4 LIFE. Also I dig her multicolored nail polish, and Paul’s “drum face.”

A Day in the Life: Dopest Shit We’ll Wear This Fall

WELCOME TO MY FUCKING MONTENEGRO STYLE

I don’t care about celebrity progeny. I don’t care if Celeb A + Celeb B = Celeb-Baby C. I have about ten other things I’d rather be occupied by, like why Bath and Body Works makes all their fragrances so damn vanilla-y or will Andrew Garfield make a decent Spiderman or I should set my novel to one year later so my protagonist and her major crush can make out to My Bloody Valentine? So many things occupy my mind! So I was a little puzzled when someone (i.e., my most punk rock dude sweetheart-friend ever, who I never expected would know about this stuff) asked me about Shiloh’s “Montenegro style.” At first I looked at him, spoonful of vegan lentil stew poised in front of my dumbly open mouth, like “Who the fuck is this bitch Shiloh?” (I was in a bad mood, maybe because we paid a lot of money for that vegan lentil stew and it sucked mega-ass.) And then a few seconds later I remembered Shiloh was the spawn of Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt, and then I felt bad for thinking profanity within the mental proximity of an innocent child. And then I had the real proper thought germane to this writing, which was “Wait, what the fuck is Montenegro style?” This bothered me more than not knowing who Shiloh was immediately, because I HATE not knowing things, especially dumb things like Montenegro style.

Which apparently is Shiloh Jolie-Pitt’s fashion concept as a toddler. I Googled “Montenegro style” and then “Shiloh” and apparently “people” give Angelina Jolie a hard time for letting Shiloh dress like a preppy tomboy, which Ms. Jolie christened “Montenegro style” in a Vanity Fair interview. This confused a lot of people, particularly a lot of fashion people, who bent over backwards trying to figure out what the fuck “Montenegro style” was. (“Quick! Send the Sartorialist to Montenegro to take a bunch of pictures of old dudes wearing suits!”) But then I got upset, because I read stuff that ranked on Shiloh’s way of dressing and called it all kinds of not-kind, really truly judge-y things, which were not really cool at all. Lay off the kid, assholes, and let her dress the way she wants! And then I lost interest in “Montenegro style” and just Googled “Montenegro,” and now I really want to go, because it seems like a very lovely country and I’d like to say that I’ve seen the Adriatic Sea.

All of which is to say that “Montenegro style” really means very little, but lately I like to say “Montenegro style” like it does. It kind of fucks with people, because (1) people rarely know where or what Montenegro is and (2) NO ONE really knows what Montenegro style is about. Which means (3) it can mean anything you want it to be! It’s what you say when you don’t want to define a style or don’t really have a style but want to imply a presence of style. You know, like when you want to wear something just because and people gonna hate ’cause they be haters and you just want to make them feel DUMB for hating? So you can say, “Don’t like my radiant orange ascot? It’s Montenegro style, bitches!” “Think I dress boring, fascist fashion bulletin board twits? You just don’t get my Montenegro style!” Or, “That weird dress Leighton Meester wore to some big fashion-y event? Total Montenegro style — but haters gonna hate, so what can you do?” (P.S. I love when Leighton Meester dresses genuine bananas for big fashion events.) This fall 2010, my style is Montenegro style because I haven’t really bought anything new all season except for some underwear, a poncho, and another pair of my favorite jeans. (Uniqlo straight skinny, $20 — that’s some major Montenegro style right there.) Weird, but these days I just like the clothes that I have and don’t really feel the need to add more shit to my life. And I do favor a kind of indie tomboy thing, I guess, which makes me sartorially-spiritually akin to a Brangelina toddler. So goes my style fate. Anyway: here is a small selection of my favorite clothes for fall, which were my favorites last year and will probably be my favorites next year. MONTENEGRO STYLE, BITCHES! (Kat)


(top to bottom): I freaking love this hoodie, it is the softest and happiest-making thing I have ever owned, Rebel Yell were dolls to send this to me ages upon ages ago; ’tis a pity you can’t see the muted floral pattern on this eyelet Marc by Marc Jacobs top, ’cause it’s lovely. But you can see I’m “working” the sleeve, which has some dope intricate detailing; blurry, but you can still see the poncho I bought at H&M after about nine months of non-shopping at H&M. Also: favorite Uniqlo jeans and my combat boots. You can’t tell but I’m sweating bullets b/c it’s like 84 degrees outside. FALL, WHERE THE FUCK ARE YOU?

SALLY’S MOM

I’m lying; “Sally’s Mom” isn’t my personal fashion concept for Fall 2010. Probably this fall I’ll mostly wear my blacker-than-black skinny jeans + tank top or t-shirt + plaid flannel + cowboy boots + faux silver jewelry + big hair + black eyeliner, aka Slutty Neil Young Meets Generic Bruce Springsteen Girlfriend, or something. All of that has nothing to do with Sally’s mom, a cool statuesque woman who’s both dead and imaginary and who fancies beautiful dresses much like the ones you’ll find below.

I’m talking about the book, by the way.

(from Dandelion Daydreamer)

(from Mama Stone Vintage)

(from Pampered Peacock Vintage)

(from Dirty Birdy Vintage)

P.S. I just bought the Dirty Birdy dress, and justified it by telling myself “If I buy the Dirty Birdy dress, I can add a P.S. saying ‘I just bought the Dirty Birdy dress’ and then put my byline after that, which will look a lot better than putting the ‘(Liz)’ after the ‘(from Dirty Birdy Vintage).’ It was a smart move. (Liz)

LAURA JANE= “AVANT-YUPPIE”

(Vintage faux fur hat; asymmetrical black dress from Creatures of Comfort; drugstore eyeliner; Starbucks coffee)

I spent most of my recent trip to Montreal complaining to myself and others about its startling lack of Starbucks, and I was serious. I was unsettled by how this giant chunk of my life (the “going to Starbucks” part) was suddenly gone, like as if I had showed up in Montreal and learned that people didn’t use toilet paper there, or it was illegal to have dogs. “Am I a yuppie?” I wondered, “It seems like I must be. There is no way on Earth that anybody who cares this much about Starbucks could not be a yuppie.”

“That’s weird,” I thought, “I really didn’t think I was a yuppie.”

But then, walking home drunk the next night and yelling down the Starbucksless streets about how yuppie shit makes me feel really “safe,” I realized that I’m actually an “avant-yuppie,” which essentially means that you are avant-garde, but with distinctly yuppie undertones and preferences. Most people I know are avant-yuppies; actually, I think it’s a really great alternative to the word “hipster,” the ubiquity of which all the hipsters I know, myself included, seem to be collectively growing more and more exasperated by.

Spending time in Montreal taught me an important lesson in loving Toronto and embracing the comfort I derive from its “balls to the wall” yuppieness. Montreal’s lack of yuppieness scared me. It also made me feel like I was a bigger yuppie than I actually am. I have a Blackberry, and never shut up about Starbucks for my entire trip. That is some seriously yuppie behavior on my end, and Montreal really called a lot of attention to it, which was confusing for me, and misrepresentative. In Toronto, I’m totally punk rock. In Toronto, everybody has Blackberries and goes to Starbucks. In fact, I have the shittiest phone of anybody I know, in Toronto. Most of my friends have iPhones, or better Blackberries than mine. I have the worst available Blackberry on the market. What I’m getting at is that I’d rather be the least-yuppie person in a hardcore yuppie situation than the hugest yuppie in a non-yuppie situation.

I noticed the other day that even my hero John Lennon was totally avant-yuppie. He was all “Damn the man” and revolutionized pop music and shit, but then at the same time he lived in a really chichi apartment, and ate tons of brown rice. Eating tons of brown rice is about as avant-yuppie as it gets. Same with drinking liquor out of an Evian bottle.

My asymmetrical black dress from Creatures of Comfort is hugely emblematic of my avant-yuppieness. It’s avant-garde because it’s avant-garde (A note from my Avant-Garde Primer: If it’s asymmetrical, it’s avant-garde), but it was also really expensive, and I bought if off the Internet with my Mommy’s credit card. I told her I’d pay her back for half of it, but then I never did, which was so freaking yuppie of me. But then, I write all this crazy writing all the time. Writing crazy writing all the time? Totally avant-.

All in all: how sick is my hat? I think it makes me look a rock star. Every time I wear it, I make this joke that goes, “I’m not a rock star, but I totally look like one.” That’s my other big Fall Fashion Concept this year. (Laura Jane)

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