NY MINUTES: Roland Mouret, Behnaz Sarafpour, Zac Posen

mouret.jpg+ The photos are in for Roland Mouret’s much anticipated show, and those who have no wish to look like a ruffle-y brightly-hued explosion of Easter candy will breathe a sigh of relief – in Mouret’s collection, you have something to wear. There were beautifully draped dresses and layered tanks combined with lots of gentle biker-inspired vests and jackets, punctuated with lots of canary yellow, which is turning into the one of the colors of the season. (There are also some pretty daring swimsuits.) It’s all very urban but decidedly beautiful – perhaps what editors were hoping for from Daryl Kerrigan’s show?
+ Everyone wants to hate Zac Posen because he’s young and successful and constantly surrounded by young, successful celebrities. But clearly he knows his destiny in life: to make youthful pretty frocks for youthful pretty people. His was a very red carpet-worthy collection with some superb examples of tailoring and a keen sense of color and line. There’s scant little for daytime, but who needs the harsh light of day when you get plenty of light from all those flashbulbs popping as you escort the starlet du jour from her limo?
+ Behnaz Sarafpour is the ultimate fashion chameleon: she started off with an arty, poetic note with embroidering poetry on sashes of gowns that would make Morgane Le Fay weep, then last season she nailed down the society lady with perfect pitch. For spring, she gave the fashion flock a radical change with a fierce, frankly sexy collection – lots of skintight dresses, lots of leg, lots of black patent leather. (No floaty feminine stuff here.) What remains, though, is an inherent neatness and modesty to her lines and a cleverness to her details, what with floppy bows paired with teeny trenches and minis.
+ Matthew Williamson has been doing loud, pretty, and joyfully cacophonous for so long, and it seems that the fashion world has caught up with him this season. Funnily enough, he seemed a little restrained this time around; I actually spotted a grey sweater that you could wear to a corporate office. Horrors! Swingy, loose, and boho with lots of caftans in bright colors and sundresses in tropical hues, it’s all enough to make you want to swim in margaritas and cha-cha in a barely straight line.